![]() Considered to be one of his most important designs, it is a triumph in both cut and construction, a marker of his extraordinary technical ability as a pattern cutter. Designed by Charles James in 1937, the construction of this evening jacket used the same principle as an eiderdown bed quilt. The model's arms, placed across her front, accentuate the rounded soft line of the jacket's shoulders the circular front folds against her black dress and adds prominence to the satined white silk. Since its inception the practical garment has reappeared within fashion several times here the features of this design are traced through the technical artistry of Charles James within his quilted satin evening jacket, and Norma Kamali’s sleeping bag-inspired coat to the Moncler technical wear worn by Milanese youths in the 1980s. Patented in 1940, his creation was entirely successful at keeping the wearer warm. Called the Skyliner, it encased down feathers within quilted fabric and was created out of personal necessity after Bauer nearly lost his life to hypothermia whilst on a fishing trip in mid-winter. However, it has a storied and thoroughly practical history: Eddie Bauer invented the first puffer jacket in 1936. This coat might initially seem at odds with the tradition in which the house of Balenciaga is steeped, but its construction spoke to the same technical precision that fascinated Cristobàl himself – and has provoked a surge of interest for the down coat. Demna Gvasalia’s Autumn/Winter 2016 collection for Balenciaga saw puffer jackets that crept past the bicep, exposing embellished shoulders. ![]()
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